This blanket is designed to coordinate with the fan lace hat of my Two Lace Baby Hats pattern. The blanket is knitted in the round, working from the outside in.

Sizes:

Materials:
DK weight baby yarn
4 stitch markers, preferably 3 of one color and 1 of another
Size 6 (4 mm) 40″ circular needle (for magic loop)
(Optional) Set of size 6 (4 mm) double pointed needles if magic loop method not used for center of blanket
Yarn needle

Abbreviations:
k = knit
p = purl
k-b = knit through back loop – knit through the loop at the back of the needle instead of the front of the needle – produces a twisted stitch
k2tog = knit two together
ssk = slip one knitwise, slip one knitwise, insert left needle into front of both slipped stitches and knit.
sk2p = slip 1, knit 2 together, pass slip stitch over the knit 2 together; 2 stitches have been decreased.
yo = yarn over

Pattern:
After each set is cast on, place one of the three like colored stitch markers.
Extra Small – Cast on 4 sets of 87.
Small – Cast on 4 sets of 111.
Medium – Cast on 4 sets of 135.
Large – Cast on 4 sets of 159.
Extra Large – Cast on 4 sets of 183.

Join to knit in the round being very careful not to twist. Place the different colored stitch marker to mark the changing of rounds.

There is also a chart available.

The directions for each round are to be worked between corner markers for each of the four sides.
Rnd 1: k2tog, k across to last 2 stitches before marker, ssk
Rnd 2: k2tog, k1, k3-b, k1, yo, k3-b, k2tog, p1, [ssk, k3-b, yo, k1, yo, k3-b, k2tog, p1] across to last 12 stitches before marker, ssk, k3-b, yo, k1, k3-b, k1, ssk
Rnd 3: k
Rnd 4: k2tog, k2-b, k1, yo, ssk, yo, k2-b, k2tog, p1, [ssk, k2-b, yo, k1, yo, ssk, yo, k2-b, k2tog, p1] across to last 11 stitches before marker, ssk, k2-b, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k2-b, ssk
Rnd 5: k2tog, k across to last 2 stitches before marker, ssk
Rnd 6: k2tog, (yo, ssk) twice, yo, k1-b, k2tog, p1, [ssk, k1-b, yo, k1, (yo, ssk) twice, yo, k1-b, k2tog, p1] across to last 9 stitches before marker, ssk, k1-b, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k1, ssk
Rnd 7: k
Rnd 8: k2tog, (yo, ssk) two times, yo, k2tog, p1, [ssk, yo, k1, (yo, ssk) three times, yo, k2tog, p1] across to last 8 stitches before marker, ssk, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k1, ssk
Rnd 9: k2tog, k across to last 2 stitches before marker, ssk
Rnd 10: k2tog, k3-b, k1, p1, [ssk, k3-b, yo, k1, yo, k3-b, k2tog, p1] across to last 6 stitches before marker, k1, k3-b, ssk
Rnd 11: k
Rnd 12: k2tog, k2-b, k1, p1, [ssk, k2-b, yo, k1, yo, ssk, yo, k2-b, k2tog, p1] across to last 5 stitches before marker, k1, k2-b, ssk
Rnd 13: k2tog, k across to last 2 stitches before marker, ssk
Rnd 14: k2tog, k1, p1, [ssk, k1-b, yo, k1, (yo, ssk) twice, yo, k1-b, k2tog, p1] across to last 3 stitches before marker, k1, ssk
Rnd 15: k
Rnd 16: k2tog, p1, [ssk, yo, k1, (yo, ssk) three times, yo, k2tog, p1] across to last 2 stitches before marker, ssk

Repeat rounds 1 through 16 until there are 15 stitches between each marker.

Center:
Rnd 1: k2tog, k11, ssk
Rnd 2: k2tog, k1, k3-b, k1, k3-b, k1, ssk
Rnd 3: k11
Rnd 4: k2tog, k2-b, k1, yo, ssk, k2-b, ssk
Rnd 5: k2tog, k5, ssk
Rnd 6: k2tog, yo, ssk, k1, ssk
Rnd 7: k5
Rnd 8: k2tog, k1, ssk
Rnd 9: sk2p

Cut the yarn with several inches to work with.  With a yarn needle, pull the yarn through all the remaining loops, secure and weave in end.

Edits:
4/7/2014 – added yarn requirements chart
12/17/2015 – replaced a broken link for Magic Loop method

This blanket is designed to coordinate with the tiffany lace hat of my Two Lace Baby Hats pattern. The blanket is knitted in the round, working from the outside in.

Sizes:

Gauge:
22 stitches and 30 rows = 4 inches in stockinette

Materials:
DK weight baby yarn
4 stitch markers, preferably 3 of one color and 1 of another
Size 6 (4 mm) 40″ circular needle (for magic loop)
(Optional) Set of size 6 (4 mm) double pointed needles if magic loop method not used for center of blanket
Yarn needle

Abbreviations:
k = knit
p = purl
k2tog = knit two together
ssk = slip one knitwise, slip one knitwise, insert left needle into front of both slipped stitches and knit.
sk2p = slip 1, knit 2 together, pass slip stitch over the knit 2 together; 2 stitches have been decreased

Pattern:
There is also now a chart for this pattern.
After each set is cast on, place one of the three like colored stitch markers.
Extra Small – Cast on 4 sets of 87.
Small – Cast on 4 sets of 111.
Medium – Cast on 4 sets of 135.
Large – Cast on 4 sets of 159.
Extra Large – Cast on 4 sets of 183.

Join to knit in the round being very careful not to twist. Place the different colored stitch marker to mark the changing of rounds.

The directions for each round are to be worked between corner markers for each of the four sides.
Rnd 1: k2tog, k10, (p1, k1, p1 k9) across to last 15 stitches before marker, p1, k1, p1, k10, ssk
Rnd 2: k2tog, k9, (k3, yo, k3, sk2p, k3, yo) across to last 14 stitches before marker, k12, ssk
Rnd 3: k10, (p1, k1, p1 k9) across to last 13 stitches before marker, p1, k1, p1, k10
Rnd 4: k2tog, k8, (k4, yo, k2, sk2p, k2, yo, k1) across to last 13 stitches before marker, k11, ssk
Rnd 5: k2tog, k7, (p1, k1, p1 k9) across to last 12 stitches before marker, p1, k1, p1, k7, ssk
Rnd 6: k2tog, k6, (k5, yo, k1, sk2p, k1, yo, k2) across to last 11 stitches before marker, k9, ssk
Rnd 7: k7, (p1, k1, p1 k9) across to last 10 stitches before marker, p1, k1, p1, k7
Rnd 8: k2tog, k5 (k6, yo, sk2p, yo, k3) across to last 10 stitches before marker, k8, ssk
Rnd 9: k2tog, k4, (p1, k1, p1 k9) across to last 9 stitches before marker, p1, k1, p1, k4, ssk
Rnd 10: k2tog, k3, (k3, yo, k3, sk2p, k3, yo) across to last 8 stitches before marker, k6, ssk
Rnd 11: k4, (p1, k1, p1 k9) across to last 7 stitches before marker, p1, k1, p1, k4
Rnd 12: k2tog, k2, (k4, yo, k2, sk2p, k2, yo, k1) across to last 7 stitches before marker, k5, ssk
Rnd 13: k2tog, k1, (p1, k1, p1 k9) across to last 6 stitches before marker, p1, k1, p1, k1, ssk
Rnd 14: k2tog (k5, yo, k1, sk2p, k1, yo, k2) across to last 5 stitches before marker, k3, ssk
Rnd 15: k1, (p1, k1, p1 k9) across to last 4 stitches before marker, p1, k1, p1, k1
Rnd 16: k2tog, k5, yo, sk2p, yo, k3, (k6, yo, sk2p, yo, k3) across to last 4 stitches before marker, k2, ssk
Rnd 17: k2tog, p1, k9, (p1, k1, p1 k9) across to last 3 stitches before marker, p1, ssk
Rnd 18: k2tog, k3, yo, sk2p, yo, k3, (k6, yo, sk2p, yo, k3) across to last 2 stitches before marker, ssk
Rnd 19: p1, k9, (p1, k1, p1 k9) across to last stitch before marker, p1
Rnd 20: k2tog, k2, yo, sk2p, yo, k3, (k6, yo, sk2p, yo, k3) across to last 13 stitches before marker, k6, yo, sk2p, yo, k2, ssk
Rnd 21: k2tog, k7, (p1, k1, p1 k9) across to last 12 stitches before marker, p1, k1, p1, k7, ssk
Rnd 22: k2tog, yo, sk2p, yo, k3, (k6, yo, sk2p, yo, k3) across to last 11 stitches before marker, k6, yo, sk2p, yo, ssk
Rnd 23: k7, (p1, k1, p1 k9) across to last 10 stitches before marker, p1, k1, p1, k7
Rnd 24: k2tog, ssk, yo, k3, (k6, yo, sk2p, yo, k3) across to last 10 stitches before marker, k6, yo, ssk, ssk
Rnd 25: k2tog, k4, (p1, k1, p1 k9) across to last 9 stitches before marker, p1, k1, p1, k4, ssk
Rnd 26: k2tog, k3, (k6, yo, sk2p, yo, k3) across to last 8 stitches before marker, k6, ssk
Rnd 27: k4, (p1, k1, p1 k9) across to last 7 stitches before marker, p1, k1, p1, k4
Rnd 28: k2tog, k2, (k6, yo, sk2p, yo, k3) across to last 7 stitches before marker, k5, ssk
Rnd 29: k2tog, k1, (p1, k1, p1 k9) across to last 6 stitches before marker, p1, k1, p1, k1, ssk
Rnd 30: k2tog, (k6, yo, sk2p, yo, k3) across to last 5 stitches before marker, k3, ssk

Repeat rounds 15 through 30 until there are 17 stitches between each marker.

Center:
Rnd 1: k1, p1, k1, p1, k9, p1, k1, p1, k1
Rnd 2: k2tog, k5, yo, sk2p, yo, k5, ssk
Rnd 3: k2tog, p1, k9, p1, ssk
Rnd 4: k2tog, k3, yo, sk2p, yo, k3, ssk
Rnd 5: p1, k9, p1
Rnd 6: k2tog, k2, yo, sk2p, yo, k2, ssk
Rnd 7: k2tog, k5, ssk
Rnd 8: k2tog, yo, sk2p, yo, ssk
Rnd 9: k5
Rnd 10: k2tog, k1, ssk
Rnd 11: sk2p

Cut the yarn with several inches to work with.  With a yarn needle, pull the yarn through all the remaining loops, secure and weave in end.

Edits:
12/17/2015 – replaced a broken link for Magic Loop method

I’m a bit behind on posting. I sent six lap blankets and throws with my friend for hospice in her December batch.

This lap blanket was fun, quick and easy. The Jo-Ann Sensations Boucle yarn is soft and light. When I crochet with boucle yarn, I like to use a pattern that I won’t have to be hunting stitches. Things with clusters or shells worked into chain spaces are the best. This is Seashell Pattern from The Ultimate Sourcebook of Knitting and Crochet Stitches.

This lap blanket is from various small amounts of blue acrylic worsted weight yarns that I had and a pattern called Cascade Afghan that I’d been wanting to try for a long time. It was fun to make.

I did what you are not supposed to do, and mixed several unknown black yarns to make this throw. This pattern is somewhat an adaptation of Heather Lace by Mary Jane Protus published in Leisure Arts #102626, Quick And Cozy Afghans. I started it long ago and don’t know why or what for. It appears I ran out of the yarn and just packed it up. When I found it, I completed it with whatever black yarn I found in my stash and in keeping with my adaptation of the pattern.

I have some of my enormous yarn stash posted on Ravelry. I have marked several items as things I’d be willing to sell or trade. A lady in California wanted some cotton yarn I had available and proposed a trade. This is Naturally Caron Country yarn that was part of that trade. The pattern is Blanket (crochet) #2257 by Bernat.

This is from donated yarn, super soft cotton worsted called Jeannee by Plymouth Yarn. The pattern is fun and quick by one of my favorite designers, Grandma’s
Lacy Ripple by Carole Prior, published in Leisure Arts #2761, Rippling Effects.

This lap blanket is from some scraps of acrylic worsted I needed to use up. The pattern is one of my own, Lacy V-stitch Ripple Afghan.

This is a chart of the beginning chain and first two rows of the Lacy V-stitch Ripple Afghan for two repeats.

This is a simple but elegant pattern for a throw. The sample is made in worsted weight, but it would work well with lighter weight yarns. This is a particularly good pattern for a boucle or homespun style yarn because after the first row, all stitches are made in chain spaces. (For a version where even the first row is made in chain spaces, go here.)

Size:
Sample is a 30 by 32 inch lap blanket in worsted weight acrylic yarn, but pattern can be easily adjusted to make a throw or full sized blanket.

Materials:
For lap blanket size, 400 grams/14 ounces/750 yards worsted weight yarn. For other sizes, see above chart.
Size I (5.5mm) crochet hook

Special stitches:
V-stitch: in stitch or space indicated, 1 dc, 1 ch, 1 dc
Shell: in stitch or space indicated, (1 dc, 1 ch) 3 times, 1 dc

There is also a tutorial video.

The beginning chain should be a multiple of 22 plus 17.

Lap blanket size (30″)  is started with chain of 149. For other widths start with this number of chains:
34.5″ = 171
38.75″ = 193
43.25″ = 215
47.75″ = 237

Row 1: V-stitch in 5th chain from hook. Skip 2 chains, v-stitch in next chain. Skip 2 chains, shell in next chain. (Skip 2 chains, v-stitch in next chain) twice. ** Skip 4 chains, v-stitch in next chain, skip 4 chains, v-stitch in next chain, skip 2 chains, v-stitch in next chain, skip 2 chains, shell in next chain, (skip 2 chains, v-stitch in next chain) twice. Repeat from ** across to end of chain. Turn.

Row 2: Chain 3, skip first v-stitch, (v-stitch in next chain space) twice, shell in next chain space, (v-stitch in next chain space) twice. ** Chain 2, skip next v-stitch. In next chain space (1 sc, 4 ch, 1 sc). Chain 2, skip next v-stitch, (v-stitch in next chain space) twice, shell in next chain space, (v-stitch in next chain space) twice. Repeat from ** across to end, ending on next to last v-stitch. Turn.

Row 3: Chain 3, skip first v-stitch, (v-stitch in next chain space) twice, shell in next chain space, (v-stitch in next chain space) twice. ** Skip next v-stitch and chain 2. In chain 4 space work v-stitch. Skip chain 2 and next v-stitch, (v-stitch in next chain space) twice, shell in next chain space, (v-stitch in next chain space) twice. Repeat from ** across to end, ending on next to last v-stitch. Turn.

Repeat rows 2 and 3. Next to the last row should be a row 3. Finish with this last row:

Last Row: Chain 3, skip first v-stitch, (v-stitch in next chain space) twice, shell in next chain space, (v-stitch in next chain space) twice. ** Chain 2, skip next v-stitch. In next chain space (2 sc). Chain 2, skip next v-stitch, (v-stitch in next chain space) twice, shell in next chain space, (v-stitch in next chain space) twice. Repeat from ** across to end, ending on next to last v-stitch. Fasten off and weave in end.

The blanket can be made in a solid color or can be made with any number of color changes. Color changes should be made between row 2 and row 3. The best way to make a color change is to finish all but the very last pull through of the two loops of the last double crochet of a row. Cut yarn with a few inches of tail and join with new color next to stitch. Pull new color through last two loops. Weave in ends.

There is a chart available of the first two rows.

Edits:
8/14/15 – added link to No Beginning Chain version.

The baby’s crib set has these colors, thus the color choices. Once I started working with the colors I realized they reminded me of spumoni ice cream (chocolate, cherry and pistachio). I have made several of these blankets over the years. The pattern is Downey Soft Zig-Zags by Carole Prior.  It’s published in Leisure Arts #2853, Our Best Baby Afghans. The hats are from my own patterns: Two Lace Baby Hats and Top Down Elongated Stitches Baby Hat.

For the full pattern please see this link.

This chart is for one repeat – showing the chain and two next rows.

These are the items I had for the May 2011 Hospice delivery.

The lap blanket to the left was made from Mulberry Caron Dazzleaire which I unraveled from a hideous sweater I had made long ago. The pattern is Fabulous Fans by Rita Weiss in Leisure Arts #3693, Afghans by the Pound. The lap blanket to the right is of some mystery acrylic worsted that my aunt and uncle picked up at an estate sale. The pattern is Diamond Ripple by Anne Halliday in Leisure Arts #108214, Afghans for All Seasons, Book 2.

These are both my own Crossed Double Crochet Ripple Blanket pattern. The one on the left is with Lion Brand Pound of Love Bubble Gum and Pastel Pink. The one on the right is with Heather Green Caron Dazzleaire from the same hideous sweater as the Fabulous Fans above.

I had some yarn leftover from a baby shower gift so made two preemie sets in the same (somewhat modified) pattern.

Several people had donated preemie blankets to this batch without hats, so I made hats with coordinating yarn using my Basic Baby Hat pattern.

These are two simple hats to go with blankets others made using my Simple Lines Baby Hats pattern.

This is another neutral hat to go with a blanket given by someone else. I will probably design a coordinating blanket for this one and publish the patterns in the future.

Betty was so kind to give me permission to post her picture of the afghan she made using the stained glass ripple pattern. She made hers in two colors.  It is lovely. Thanks for sharing, Betty!

Baby Stan has a jungle/monkey theme in his room, so I decided this blanket pattern would look have a bit of a jungle look with these colors:

This is Red Heart Designer Sport yarn which I had never used before, but I love how soft it is, how it handled to sew and the colors are magnificent. This is Latte, Pistachio and Dutch Blue. The pattern is Downey Soft Zig-Zags by Carole Prior. It’s published in Leisure Arts #2853, Our Best Baby Afghans.

Although the blanket is crochet, I knitted a coordinating hat.

The pattern for the hat is one of my own.

This blanket pattern is special to me, because I made my own dear son a blanket using it. I knitted him a ribbed coordinating hat. This was his outdoor wear for his first winter.