Home » Clothing, Knitted, My Patterns » Climbing Frame Hat for Straight Needles

Climbing Frame Hat for Straight Needles

2 February 2014
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This hat has an interesting texture with a little cabling that can be done without a cable needle. Directions are given for several sizes. This version is for straight needles. Go to this page for the in-the-round version.


SizeCircumference (Inches)Height (Inches)Ounces of yarnYards of yarn
Small Adult18.256.751.7185.29
Medium Adult207.252.03101.5
Large Adult21.757.752.38119.12
Extra-Large Adult23.258.52.76138.15

Gauge: 17 stitches and 23 rows = 4 inches in stockinette

worsted weight yarn (see chart above for amount)
Size 8 (5 mm) needles
Yarn needle

k = knit
p = purl
c2f = cable 2 front – Slip the next stitch onto cable needle and hold in front of work. Knit the next stitch from left-hand needle, knit the stitch from the cable needle.
c2b = cable 2 back – Slip the next stitch onto cable needle and hold in back of work. Knit the next stitch from left-hand needle, knit the stitch from the cable needle.
k2tog = knit two together
ssk = slip one knitwise, slip one knitwise, insert left needle into front of both slipped stitches and knit.

The c2f and c2b can be made without a cable needle. There are several methods for doing that. I have a video of my method.

Amount to cast on for the different sizes:
Toddler = 73
Child = 81
Small Adult = 89
Medium Adult = 97
Large Adult = 105
Extra-Large Adult = 113

Repeat instructions between * across the round:

Row 1: k1, p2, * k2, p2 *, k2
Row 2: p2, * k2, p2 *, k2, p1
Rows 3 to 8: repeat the first two rows three times to complete 8 rows of ribbing.
Row 9: k
Row 10: k4, * p2, k6 *, p2, k3
Row 11: k2, c2b, c2f, * k4, c2b, c2f *, k3
Row 12: p

Repeat these four rows until the hat measures the desired height for size (ending with a row 4):
Toddler – 3.5″ high
Child – 4″ high
Small Adult – 4.75″ high
Medium Adult – 5.25″ high
Large Adult – 5.75″ high
Extra-Large Adult – 6.5″ high

Crown: Repeat between * across the row
Row 1: * k2, k2tog, ssk, k2 * k1
Row 2: k3, * p2, k4 *, p2, k2
Row 3: k1, c2b, c2f, * k2, c2b, c2f *, k2
Row 4: p
Row 5: * k1, k2tog, ssk, k1 * k1
Row 6: k2, * p2, k2 *, p2, k1
Row 7: * c2b, c2f * k1
Row 8: p
Row 9: * k2tog, ssk * k1
Row 10: p
Row 11: * k2tog * k1

Cut the yarn with several inches to work with.  With a yarn needle, pull the yarn through all the remaining loops, secure, stitch seam and weave in end.

Restrictions on the use of this pattern are available at http://stitcheryprojects.com/using-my-patterns/.

Clothing, Knitted, My Patterns

22 Comments to “Climbing Frame Hat for Straight Needles”

  1. Thank you so much. It was a very kind of you Mama.:)

  2. Thank you Ma I just done my first cable knit keep up the great work and patterns I love them 🙂

  3. How do I become part of this page……just starting out….looks great 🙂

    • We are working on having a way to sign up for notifications and providing for more participation. As soon as we have that ready we will send out an e-mail. In the mean time, we can be followed on Twitter and Facebook.

  4. I dont do ca le just straigt knit and purl

  5. Any chance if getting a conversion to straight needles for your embossed leaves hat please?

  6. In place of the cable stitch could I do yo, k2tog, k2tog, yo. How will this pattern look?

    • I understand not wanting to do the cable. That modification would do two things – 1) make it lacy and 2) wouldn’t keep the “climbing” effect. The combination of the c2b and c2f makes it look like the top knit curves outward to support the purl bars and then a new pair of knit stitches come out from between them and grow up to then curl apart and support the next set of purl bars.

      • Thank you for your reply. I understand what you mean. But am just not able to get the cabling stitches neatly. Is there a substitute? I like how the pattern looks otherwise. Pls help. I really want to make this hat.

        • The only thing I could think to substitute were decreases and yarn overs. I had to shift of the “bar” stitches to the “climbing” section so that there would be a knit between the two yarn overs. I used k2tog with ssk to keep the effect of the columns curling out to support the bars.

          Row 1: k1, p2, * k2, p2 *, k2
          Row 2: p2, * k2, p2 *, k2, p1
          Rows 3 to 8: repeat the first two rows three times to complete 8 rows of ribbing.
          Row 9: k
          Row 10: k3, * p3, k5 *, p3, k3
          Row 11: k2, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, * k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk *, k2
          Row 12: p

          Crown: Repeat between * across the row
          Row 1: * k2, k2tog, k1, ssk, k1 * k1
          Row 2: k2, * p3, k3 *, p3, k2
          Row 3: k1, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, * k1, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk *, k1
          Row 4: p
          Row 5: * k1, k2tog, k1, ssk * k1
          Row 6: k1, * p3, k1 *, p3, k1
          Row 7: k
          Row 8: p
          Row 9: * k2tog, ssk * k1
          Row 10: p
          Row 11: * k2tog * k1

          • Hi, Mama, I am doing this pattern, but I am a beginner, and I don’t know a lot about yarns. The yarn I am using is chunkier than the “ply 4.” The packaging says L, and the yarn could be twice as thick as the ply 4. My questions:
            1. Could I reduce the number of rows in the beginning, for example, instead of 8 rows, could I make it six?
            2. Could I reduce the number of rows at the crown, and if so, what rows could I skip wthout destroying the pattern?
            I am asking these questions because I imagine if I do all the rows, it would be a very tall hat, and I just want my hat to fit the head.
            3. I want to add a brim all around to the hat. Can it be done? Any suggestions how? Thanks.
            I imagine you will reply before I finish a few rows. Thanks again. Cheers.

          • 1. Yes on reducing the ribbing rows.
            2. The first several rows of the crown are in keeping with the pattern of the hat, so would make it look strange to leave them out. The last few rows could be accelerated.
            3. I don’t know much about brims. You might see if there is a pattern with one you like and could incorporate it.

            I assume you will begin your hat with a cast on for a smaller size so that it wouldn’t be too big in circumference.

  7. I would like to knit a hat for someone I know who has cancer, but I am not sure what one to knit. She gets hot flashes sometimes when she wears hats, so I want to knit one that is cool and breathes well, but it needs to cover her head completely. Does anyone know of any patterns that would work>

  8. I am a little more than a beginner knitter and would like to try this hat pattern for a teenage girl. The yarn in my stash says DK and to use US needles 5-7. It is a variegated yarn, 25% wool & 75% acrylic. Would this yarn work on this pattern? I would probably use the size 7 needle. Would I need to adjust the number of cast on stitches since I am using a smaller needle size? Hope I can do the c2b and c2f!
    I have made your baby checks blanket and baby checks hat. Great patterns!

    • That yarn will work great. Just cast on for one size larger than you want and it should work out to be the correct size.

  9. I knitted this hat with Robin DK yarn, for a baby (3-6) months using a size 3.75mm straight needles and it came out so lovely.

    Thanks for the lovely design

  10. hey,

    do we need double pointed needle or the normal ones?


    • This is the straight needle version of this pattern so it is made on normal needles. There is another version of it that is designed for dpn’s made in-the-round.

  11. Hi-have just knitted this hat for a friend. It looks absolutely great. Was so pleased to find pattern for straight needles. Am going to try the leaf pattern next! Could you convert some more of your beanies for straight needles? Thanks

    • I’m glad you like this one. I have made straight needle versions of most of my hats. I may have missed adding a link from the in-the-round version, so check the drop down of My Patterns for any you haven’t seen a link for. There are a few of my patterns that didn’t translate easily to straight needle versions so I didn’t convert those.

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